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Logitech G700 Middle Mouse Button Repair

Logitech G700 Middle mouse button repair.

Time to apply some hacker/maker knowledge to this –  and attempt a fix of something back to its original glory, or possibly, even better than before.

Warning ahead – image intensive post.

I love my mouse – ask anyone who’s known me to use a computer for any period of time, and they’ll corroborate my story. I purchased this Logitech G700 several years ago, and it has served me well through gaming, CAD work, and all of the general surfing of the interwebs. I take it along with my laptop wherever I go, including international air travel.

So, you might say I was a bit distraught when the middle mouse button started acting up. First, by multi-clicking every time I used it, and then finally almost refusing to work at all.

The mouse being well out of warranty, I searched the web for the part number for the tiny little middle mouse button, to no avail. No one seems to have replaced it, or even attempted the repair of this $90 mouse. Logitech won’t release part numbers on any internal components.

After taking apart the mouse initially, and getting some idea of what I was looking for, I took it upon myself to find it, through Mouser’s deductive search engine.

Whittling it down to what it could be, I found this.

TL3315NF160Q E-Switch

Well, that’s all fine and good – but won’t this switch just fail in the same way again, in the same amount of time or less?

Time to upgrade! (Maybe?)


Now that’s more like it. I wonder if it fits…. Either way, I ordered several of each because of the super low cost. This should be a <$1.00 USD Fix for anyone wanting to attempt it.

Now, for the procedure. Doctor?

Remove the 4 slider pads from the bottom. I was able to get these up with a razor blade/my fingernail. Some of them separated from their adhesive, no problem. we’ll fix that later. (I did not take a pic of this, but I ended up using  just a dot or two of super glue under each pad that would not re-adhere)

Perhaps I should replace these soon (these parts ARE available from Logitech…)

Remove the 5 screws holding the two halves together. They are Phillips #00

Be careful once you have the screws out. The mouse has a cable connecting the top and bottom half. Remove it from the white connector as shown.

Ah, the interior. The button we want sits right at the front under the wheel assembly.

Remove the wheel assembly by pulling the black plastic pin out of its socket, located directly behind the scroll wheel.

Scroll wheel just pops out of place. Lift it straight up.

There’s the stock button. (small gold disc) We want to remove the little springs and metal bracket around this for easier access.

Got a new ETH (1/32″) tip for my Weller WES51 Soldering station, just for this project. They have a smaller tip, but I figured I would try this one first.

I de-soldered the button by lightly heating each “leg” while I pried up using a VERY small screwdriver tip. Just enough to separate the button from each of it’s pads on the board. Patience.

Button Loose!

Now, the replacement options. The Gold colored buttons are the E-Switch part, and the Grey/Black are the ALPS part. I decided to give the 160g force ALPS switches a try. they seem to be close enough in size.

To prep the pads, I re-heated each pad to melt the solder that was there, and smooth it out. I very carefully placed the new ALPS switch in place, and heated one pad, adjusting the button with a screwdriver to get it into just the right position. This was tricky. Once you have on pad done, the others are easier.

Alps Button in place! Now just to reassemble and test.

Well, SUCCESS! The ALPS button works – feels like the 160g button might be a bit stiffer than stock(maybe stock was the 100g force?), but I happen to like it. It works like a charm again. And, with a higher quality part than before.

You don’t always have to hack things into other things. Sometimes, hacking is about fixing what you own, or even making it better and/or more useful for your task at hand.


01/12/2018 – EDIT: User BlackThorn has provided a link to other replacement switches in the mouse down in the comments, but i’ve listed them now here for those who wish to find them easier. I have not verified that these work, but would assume this user did.

Left+Right – Omron D2FC-F-7N

Middle – E-Switch TL3315NF160Q

Middle Tilt – Panasonic EVQ-P0E07K

GKeys – Alps SKQGABE010

Left+Right – Omron D2F-01F Japan

Middle – Alps SKQGAAE010
(Has the same actuation force of original, the one linked in the guide is 1N instead of 1.6N)

Middle Tilt – Omron B3M-6009

GKeys – No better replacement Alps SKQGABE010

73 thoughts on “Logitech G700 Middle Mouse Button Repair

  • What makes the middle button “click”? My middle button recently stopped clicking but still works.

    • hybridsix

      The little membrane on top of the button actually pops in and out, sort of like the top of some glass jars. When it stops being as resilient, it stops making the click/pop. That’s how mine started.

  • The middle mouse button is HORRIBLE! Its the same switch thats in the new g700s too, what were they thinking. Anyways, thanks for the guide, i replaced my faulty switch.

    • hybridsix

      You’re very welcome! My best guess is they are just trying to maximize their profits, and also grossly underestimate the number of times that button is clicked.

  • @hybridsix I agree,but why put that flawed flex membrane tactile switch just for that middle middle? All the other switches are great.

    At first i scrapped off the switch membrane orange plastic, took the disk out and flexed it in the middle and replaced it with my own tape. This worked pretty well, but eventually failed. Then i stumbled upon this awesome guide. The hardest part of the operation was finding the spring coil i dropped. 🙂

  • My up and down click of the middle button is going bad now so this will come in handy. But even worse, the left/right tilts went out a year or so ago (after only a couple of years). Neither one will activate and I need those badly. At first they would activate, then I had to push them harder to activate and then nothing so, I’m reasonably sure it’s a mechanical/linkage of sorts issue.

    My question is, I did just happen to run across a new scroll assembly on the bay and wondered if that replacement would cover the tilt problem or would the tilt not engaging, be somewhere separate from the switch assembly? I just can’t see from the pic here, how that electrical connection is made from the mechanical switch and into the mouse. IOW,I easily see the left/right click electrical switches in the pic but am missing a view of any tilt switch linkage to electrical connections so I wonder if a scroll assembly is all I need. Hope that makes sense.

    I think the scroll assembly should cover it but I wanted to ask before I went in as I want to be without this mouse for as short a time as possible. Guess now I’ll just replace the switch mentioned here when I’m in there and be back to new status again.

    This mouse and I are inseparable as well. It ain’t perfect but, I’ve found nothing better.

    Thanks for a bit on what’s in there, how to get in and get the part……good stuff.

    • hybridsix


      The replacement assembly MIGHT come with those switches – to show you which ones they are… if you look at the scroll wheel assembly, where the plastic pin comes out, there are two clear plastic “wings” that come off the back of that scroll wheel(furthest from the middle click button I replaced). Those press down on two black round switches that stand up and have a black raised line– these are your scroll wheel “tilt” switches (see this pic, you can easily see them located in the center of the frame) http://i.imgur.com/HMxP4p0.jpg . I’m not sure what the part numbers for these switches are, but i’m sure you can find them with a little digging. Good luck!

  • Thanks Hybrid, that helped. It appears the new scroll assembly has everything the removed assembly in your pic shows so, just ordered and I’ll see how it goes.

  • My mouse scroll switches also stops working. Do you have any link about this scroll wheel assembly or switches for this. And maybe if Kenny would write if repair was sucesfull.

  • Maybe i was not clear enough. I was talking about scroll wheel right and left switches. I use them in games and in 2 mouses stops in about 2 years.

  • Hi hybrid, just noticed on my now long serving G700 that I have no middle click, but it still functions.
    My question is that as I am a novice at the actual physical hacking part, would you rate this as a easily messed up / broke the device job?
    Thanks really handy blog from reading so far, seems like all these things break for everyone at the same time 🙂

    • Stephen – The actual taking apart the mouse is quite easy. The soldering is somehwat more advanced, since you’re dealing with temperature sensitive (read: it’ll melt) surface mount buttons. The worst case scenario that I see, would be completely scorching or tearing off the contact pads on the PCB for the button while soldering. This would just cause the button to not function without some serious reparing. If you’re pretty good at soldering, then its probably worth a shot. Good luck.

  • A HUGE THANK YOU! My middle mouse button had the same problem after I dropped it. Thanks to you I was able to order a replacement button and repair my mouse!

  • Raizekas

    Where could I get these tactile switches in UK? Since Mouser shipping costs 12 pounds.

    • hybridsix

      You might try Farnell? I have not looked, and unfortunately am not very familiar with the UK electronics distributors. Best of luck!

  • Hi hybrid!

    I have recently dropped my G700 and the middle button click broke. I am going to fix it using your guide but I don’t have a solder yet. Can you tell me, what power is yours so I don’t fry the circuit board?

    Also, what type of switches are in left and right buttons? I’d prefer to have spare switches for them too, because as durable and reliable as G700 is, these buttons are still ought to fail someday too (it happened to my old G7).


    • hybridsix

      Lev – The soldering station I use is a Weller WES51, and I had it set to about 650 degrees Fahrenheit. I would strongly recommend you look for an iron with an adjustable temperature control, as these tend to be a bit better. Tip size is also important, you want the smallest you can get for this sort of work. If you are set on purchasing a non-adjustable iron, I’d say something around 25-35w would probably be sufficient. You might also check with your local hacker/maker space to see if they have one you could borrow, and you might meet some cool people there along the way.

      Concerning the main left/right click switches, I have not looked into these parts much. I can see they are omron brand micro switches, but have not looked deeper into them at this point.

      Best of luck!

  • xrenk

    First of all, nice work!
    I am not from the US and unfortunately I can’t find the replacement switches you’re talking about in the internet. I was looking for ALPS Switches but didn’t find anything. Could you please post or send me a link where I could get those switches? Thank you! 🙂

    • hybridsix

      xrenk – Judging by your email address – I’d say you’re from Germany – or nearby. Avnet Electronics might be your best bet for parts in your area. If I’m reading this correctly, Avnet Express is their online ordering/purchasing – although you might have to call. You might also be able to order from Farnell. You can always search here for other distributors. http://www.alps.com/e/common/contact_us/wheretobuy/europe.html Best of luck!

  • xrenk

    Wow, thanks for the quick reply! And yes, I am from Germany 🙂 I was pretty busy last week and totally forgot about it, sorry!
    Thanks for the link, it helps a lot. Do you remember the exact product number of the switch you got? I’m 17 and not quite familiar with that stuff, so I don’t wanna buy the wrong switch 😛

    • hybridsix

      okolaris – the part number for the ALPS button is the SKQGAAE010 – they have one that takes less force to push (more like stock) but I don’t have that number in front of me.

  • Jason

    Hey Hybridsix, super cool guide, I need to fix my G600 G8 key which is no longer responsive and in my excitement, I accidentally voided my warranty.(._. )

    Do you think the alps button would work as a replacement for the G keys? ( they look similar as the G key clickers on your last image) or do you have anything that might work better?

    Appreciate any advice C:

    • hybridsix

      Jason – Those buttons are a little different – i’m not sure if the same would work, but it could always be worth a try. If you take one up, it might have part number information on the bottom of it that could help you find it. I know ALPS (again, favorite button/switch/potentiometer brand) has many offerings, so it might be not a bad idea to thumb through their catalog.

  • maudit

    Hi, i didnt dollow this guide, i just opened the mouse to clean it.

    but while i was disassembly it i noticed a little spring came out from the inside.
    I dont know where to put it.
    I already have the 2 springs under the wheel and g8/g9/g10 have their springs..

    so please hlp me… where do i have to put the 6th spring?

  • hybridsix


    I’m not exactly sure where your spring would go, but I would check all the buttons for correct functionality. That might lead you to a solution. Its also possible, although unlikely, that a spare spring was dropped in the mouse during original assembly. I don’t have any other detailed pictures of this mouse other than what I have posted, so I can’t really help out there. Best of luck though!

  • Hello,
    I have a problem with left tilt switch not working, i cant find the switch type/model anywhere, could someone please help?
    If i knew the switch model i could try replacing it, i really cant live without my tilt switches 🙁

    Thanks in advance!

  • Hi, does someone know what’s the model for tilt switches in g700? Left tilt just stopped working and i dont have warranty service in my country. I could try finding the switch online and replace it myself, but i cant find the switch type/model anywhere.

  • Thanks! This guide helped a lot.

  • hybridsix, I just wanted to say you are pretty cool following up with all these replies. I noticed that the middle button on this thing the Middle click would stay pressed after travel treatment. [simply thrown in my lappy backpack]

    My scroller is now intermittent and I will replace that assembly but I have been annoyed all along that the middle button was so sensitive that it would click while scrolling. I will use the alps switch to try and make that better moving fwd.

    Thanks for the info!

  • Hey, thanks for the guide. I want to change the Omron micro switches on the G700 but I’m having difficulty in doing so. It seems that the both circuits board are linked via a 14-pin connector that is soldered onto both boards.

    Have you ever desoldered the circuit boards? if you have, i was looking for a few pointers as there is almost no infor out there. Anyway, thanks for the guide

    • hybridsix

      I haven’t been checking this thread recently, sorry! I don’t believe I had a connector that had to be desoldered on the boards, although it can be done. Soldering Iron, solder sucker, some solder wick and patience. I have desoldered connectors that large in the past, just not with this mouse.

    • hybridsix

      Sorry, I haven’t been checking this thread as frequently as I used to. That switch looks almost like it’ll work, but difficult to tell without trying it!

  • Thank you for sharing these steps in very details. Appreciate it.

  • B Simmy

    Wow thanks for the write up. I got the 1g ALPS button from Mouser. I am not a great solderer to begin with and started this project a little tired. In the process I lifted the top right pad off the PCB! Thought I was buying a new mouse, but with a little extra solder, it works! Keep up the awesome work.

  • In some cases the contact spray can also help revive the switches. I had a problem with left and right omron switches where they would produce multiple clicks or drop contacts while held. Also, the left click scroll stopped working entirely. In all of them I sprayed contact spray containing oxide disolving chemicals. They all started working like when they were new. Do you know what kind of switches are those big for left and right scroll?

    • hybridsix

      Hey, sorry to all. I havent been paying enough attention to this thread lately. 🙂 The big switches? like for the main left/right click? – I’m not sure on those, but my left click has started to act up, so it looks like i’ll be replacing it and adding to this guide soon. All I know right now is that its an Omron part.

  • Joshua

    I have a question about placing the new switch. After removing the old (bent) switch. There isn’t anything left on the board to adhere the new switch too. To adhere the new switch, do I place four new drops of solder on the board and place the switch onto of the new solder, apply a bit of solder on top of the feet and heat the new feet to attach it?
    Thank you!

    • hybridsix

      Yes, you’re essentially right. A small bit of solder will go a very long way. I’d place the switch on top of the now empty solder pads, and heat one of the legs, dabbing just a bit of solder on top of it at the joint. Then you can go to the other 3. Best of luck!

  • Pingback: Logitech (G) mice and failing middle mouse button tactile switch - Alex Zheng

    • hybridsix

      Probably, looks fairly similar to the stock switch. Good luck.

  • A goodness, thank you so much for making a whole writeup on this for us. It’s such a pain that the manufacturers employ planned obsolescence to this degree that even high quality products are made to fail with cheap micro components.

    Much appreciate you taking the time, thanks again!

  • Simcraft

    Any idea how to disassemble the wheel cage itself? It’s a bit tricky. I only reached the bit a screw is underneath but nothing gives with just that.

  • Hi. 🙂

    I wonder if you can help me out. I got a G500 and my mouse wheel still has the “click” sound but it is not working.
    Any ideas what this might be?

  • Jason Goff

    It’s probably the tactile switch that he discusses above. However, for the G500 (the one I have, as well) the tactile switch isn’t the one he listed (which I don’t think is the right one for him, either).

    The correct one is the 4.5mmx4.5mm SKRMAAE010. It’s identical to the one above, but is the correct dimensions.

  • Great article.

    For everybody finding it hard to get the ALPS button. Or struggling with shipping cost.

    Here is an extremely cheaper alternative:
    $0.9 USD for 20 pieces including FREE worldwide shipping.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/252367335510 Link is dead.

    Good luck…

  • Hello, i’m searching for SKQGAAE010 in some shops, including in aliexpress or ebay but i only find it in a minimal 50 quantity. Do you know if i can use another model that will find easier?

    For the moment i only changed the microswitches for left and right buttons, but maybe better prevent and have it.


    • hybridsix

      There are many alternatives, although i’m not sure if a particular button will work or not, as I’m not able to test every combination. But, if you get the same physical dimensions and operating force as the ones listed, there is a good possibility it’ll still work.

      Just to update – My mouse is still going strong, although I have replaced the button a second time. I think I damaged it by banging my laptop bag with the mouse in it though on that side. I have also replaced the slider pads on the bottom.

  • bigsxy

    noticed you used 5.2×5.2 switches when i measured mine 4.6. did yours end up fitting fine. also would i be better off finding a switch with a stem or is it not necessary for the scroll wheel switch. i know the one you link has a twin but with a stem and it comes in at 1.5mm in height wondering if that would be too tall and cause problems with the switch being clicked in all the time.

    • hybridsix

      I don’t think one with a stem will fit, although you might be able to file down the stem to make it fit. There is probably a little variance in the size of the switch, as long as the electrical pads still contact, and the little plunger on the bottom of the scroll wheel bracket still line up.

  • Sovereign

    Thanks For The Tip, Very Nice Guide.

    Its Always nice seeing somebody elses work before taking something apart.

    found this


  • Do any of you have any idea where to get replacement for those tiny springs, or even just the excact measurements of them, managed to lose one of them when I was replacing a cord on mine and it messes up the middle click.
    Would be extremely grateful if you could help

  • ogod…

    1 SKQGAAE010 cost about €0.40 + €20 shipped :(.

    where can order it @normal shipment fee>Netherlands.

  • Brian

    Thank you so much for this. I have a G500 and have the exact same issue. Luckily the internals are about the same as your mouse. Going to salvage a gold switch from a broken mouse first but again thanks for the link on the Alps part.

    • hybridsix

      No problem! I’m still rocking the same G700 as well, still going strong. I actually think at this point that the replacement switch has outlived the original switch. Good luck on your repair!

  • Rocky

    Thank you as well for the excellent guide. I also have a g500 and am looking to refresh some of the buttons and this guide will be invaluable. I was wondering, though, if you knew what the scroll-wheel tilt buttons would be called or where they could be purchased? They appear to be some sort of tactile disc-spring but I’ve had no luck on finding replacements. Thanks so much.

    • hybridsix

      Unfortunately, I don’t. I actually have not taken the mouse apart again after I wrote this guide. You might be able to find a replacement by narrowing down the results on Mouser or Digikey like I had done with the front click button.

  • BlackThorn

    Thanks for listing the middle click button and the upgraded Alps button.

    To help everyone else out as this mouse has now been discontinued including the g700s which is identical internally other than the center of the shell which has the updated graphic.

    Below is a complete list of all the switches that this mouse takes along with upgraded variants.

    Left+Right – Omron D2FC-F-7N

    Middle – E-Switch TL3315NF160Q

    Middle Tilt – Panasonic EVQ-P0E07K

    GKeys – Alps SKQGABE010

    Left+Right – Omron D2F-01F Japan

    Middle – Alps SKQGAAE010
    (Has the same actuation force of original, the one linked in the guide is 1N instead of 1.6N)

    Middle Tilt – Omron B3M-6009

    GKeys – No better replacement Alps SKQGABE010

  • Adrian

    I did open my mouse to clean but I open the wheel too. Inside are to support torqued springs that I do not know how to put them back. in this case my mouse wheel is not working properly. Can you please help me with some pictures or an advice?

  • The article and comments make it a little confusing as to what was original.

    Is the original switch for the middle button 1N or 1.6N?

    SKQGAAE010 is 1.6N
    SKQGAEE010 is 1N

    Notice the subtle difference. The SKQGAEE010 (1N) was never mentioned or linked. But again, it is not clear which N force was original on the G700. Despite this, thank you, it’s a GREAT article!

    • hybridsix

      I’m pretty sure the original button is 1N. Not sure though, but it was lighter force than the 1.6 that I installed. Button is still working, by the way.

  • Diffusional

    Hello, since this morning I’m experiencing a problem and your article seems to be the one that explains things better than any other I’ve seen so far so I wanted to ask you something, here it goes. I have a problem with my scroll wheel, when I scroll down it registers 20% of the time and when I scroll up it’s even worse with around 10% of success rate. But when I apply a little bit of pressure with my middle finger it seems to work fine.

    From what I understand your tutorial is for Middle Mouse Button Click and not scroll up/down, correct me if I’m wrong. I honestly do not know what am I supposed to do, I’ve seen a video of a person using pliers on rotary encoder and someone else was suggesting using contact cleaner and another one was suggesting compressed air and so on. I created a ticket on Logitech’s website and also a thread on reddit/LogitechG which you can access from this link;


    Since I bought this mouse in used condition Logitech won’t provide me any warranty support so I’m supposed to do this by myself. I would appreciate if you can help me, have a nice day.

  • Thanks a lot for this !

    • You’re very welcome! I still haven’t had to replace that button again. 🙂 I did replace the bottom pads recently, and I have one more set of them as backup if I have to do another repair.

  • Saragrace Knauf

    Great tutorial. I’m trying to fix the left tilt as well. The component is soldered and I am having trouble lifting the whole board off to get at it. There is a 12 pin ‘thingy’ to the right of the cable plug that won’t come apart. Clearly soldered on the top, but looks like a regular pin thing. Any clues?

    • I believe its just a soldered pin header. Some solder wick and a solder sucker should be able to help you remove it with patience. Good luck!

  • You’re most welcome! My best guess is they are just trying to maximize their profits, and also grossly underestimate the number of times that button is clicked.

  • short_lurker

    Great info on the part numbers of the other buttons shared by BlackThorn. I had left tilt issues like some other commenters and got the Omron B3M-6009 as replacements for both left and right tilts.

    They are great replacement physically but the left tilt is a bit sensitive. And if you middle click often like middle clicking a website link, you’ll find yourself left tilting accidentally.

    I’m sure I’m not the only one who wondered why the left tilt button has a grey top and black for the right tilt. The reason is they are different switches both manufacturer and the force to actuate. The grey top left tilt is a Kailh with an ‘E’ marking. The black top right tilt has the markings ‘D3’ and ‘M’ surrounded around it. There is no marking of who manufacturers it, but comparing the underside of the switch to the Panasonic datasheet I can confidently say it’s a Panasonic.

    Using a digital scale and pressing the button down the black top it clicks around ~55 grams force while the grey top is around ~75 gram-force. For comparison the stock left and right click Omron D2FC-F-7N rated 0.7 Newton ~= 70 gram-force also clicked around ~55 gram-force on the digital scale.

    So the left tilt button does in fact require a bit more force to actuate to prevent accidental tilts. And that force is probably around 1 Newton.

    Omron doesn’t have a switch with a higher actuating force and I could not find anything from Kailh besides some unknown China generics. Panasonic does have the EVQ-P0D07K which requires 1.3 Newton ~= 130 gram-force to actuate which might be too much.

    As of this comment I have not tried out the 1.3N switch.

  • short_lurker

    For middle tilts don’t use the Omron part listed. After three weeks I swapped out for Panasonic parts.

    Panasonic EVQ-P0E07K 75gf for right tilt
    Panasonic EVQ-P0D07K 130gf for left tilt

    No more accidentally tiling left or right when doing a middle click.

  • Filip

    Thanks a lot for this writeup. This has inspired me to fix my old G700, even though I have already replaced it with a G700s!

    to HybridSix, Blackthorn, and short_lurker!!! Very helpful.

    Would be so nice if Logitech would just still sell this mouse. Clearly a demand if people are tracking down and replacing switches.

    Anyone else ever have an issue with the switch between fly-wheel and ratcheting scroll? I have two G700s’s, and just took the wheel from one and put it in the other. Ebay sells Chinese knock-off replacements. I’ve ordered one of these in case my second wheel fails.


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